Blue Tour: Soğanlı, Keşlik, Mustafapaşa and Ürgüp

Soğanlı: a valley off the main routes

Soğanlı lies away from the popular circuits, a quiet valley with rock-cut churches. In churches such as Karabaş and Yılanlı the colours of the frescoes can still be read, and along both sides of the valley stand conical rocks and carved dovecotes. At the entrance women from the village set out hand-sewn cloth dolls and knitted goods; you needn't buy anything, but looking is a pleasure. The walk is short on dirt paths, and your guide shows on the spot what each church has to say.

Keşlik and Mustafapaşa

Keşlik Monastery is a small complex carved beneath a hill, with a church, a kitchen and a dining table cut from the rock, which shows how monks lived day to day. Sitting on cold stone, you feel that this is a lived place, not a stage set. Then on to Mustafapaşa, formerly Sinasos. Greek families lived in this village until the 1924 population exchange, and its streets are full of carved decoration in yellow tuff: door arches, window frames, bay windows. The best thing to do here is walk slowly and look up. Look for the bunches of grapes, rosettes and slender arches worked into the stone; you need not leave the street to see how skilled hands once dressed a whole settlement. Lunch is also taken in Mustafapaşa, and nobody rushes it.

Sobesos and Ürgüp

In the afternoon you visit the ancient city of Sobesos. In this settlement from the Roman and Byzantine periods the mosaic floors lie under protective roofs and are seen from walkways. Excavations are ongoing, so what can be seen varies from year to year, and your guide tells you the situation that day. The geometric patterns, the colours of the small stone tesserae and the fine workmanship of the floors show that this region is not made of rock churches alone. The day ends in Ürgüp: tuff-stone mansions, a grape and wine culture, a coffee break and, if you like, Temenni Hill with its view over the town.

Small tips for a slow day

• Carry a little small change for the stalls at Soğanlı
• In Sinasos the best light for photographs is the low sun of the afternoon
• The mosaics at Sobesos are protected; stay on the walkways
• In Ürgüp a glass of local wine or a coffee is the best way to end the day, and the driver takes you to your hotel

Notes for families with children and older guests

The Blue Tour has no hard walking, so families and older guests often choose it; a few details still help. Soğanlı is a little farther out, so the first hour is mostly driving: bring a book, colouring pad or small toy, and water and a snack. Soğanlı's paths are dirt and the other stops mix dirt and stone, so a baby carrier often beats a pushchair. At Sobesos visitors stay on the walkways; a small task such as "find the smallest stone" helps children stay put. For older guests the pace is what matters: few queues, many stops, but short, light walks. For limited mobility, a vegetarian menu or a food sensitivity, add a note when booking and we will plan together. Times are approximate, so tell your guide if you want to linger.

Who this tour is for

For anyone who has done the Red Tour already, for those who dislike crowds, and for guests interested in village life, crafts and Greek-Ottoman architecture. The pace is even, the walking light and it works well with children. Spring and autumn are the loveliest months for this route, while in the midday heat of summer the stone houses and churches stay cool. The area around Ürgüp is wine country, and in harvest season you may see grape crates and vineyard work by the roadside. Part of the day is country road; because Soğanlı is a little farther out, the first hour is mostly driving.